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Users browsing this forum: Dochartaigh, Google [Bot] and 8 guests. Posted: Tue Nov 20, am. This thread is a work in progress and I will be adding more as I get diagrams made. Help from someone with access to a set would be very helpful. To calculate the blanking voltage The resulting voltages going to the jungle can be calculated Scart RGB standard is 0. The Jumpers Jumpers make life easy, these ones will make great places to solder to, easier than surface mount resistor pads.

We need to inject 3. My normal method is to grab a 5V source which can normally be found in many places on a TV chassis and then use voltage division to send the correct voltage to the blanking pin. We already have R, a 3K3R, to ground on the blanking circuit. We will use this as the "R2" of a voltage divider, we will need to calculate the "R1". I did a quick search of the schematic for 5V sources, I found CN It's fourth pin has 5V running through it. Looks like a good one.

Notice there is ground next to it too We will then run a wire from the centre leg of the switch to the leg of diode D that is closest the R The existing factory resistors are R, R and R They are 4K7R so type in in the pink box.

The calculator will give you the exact value plus the nearest standard resistor size. The calculator tells us to use R, it is also likely R will be fine too. Using the R should yield us an OSD voltage level of around 0.

These are surface mounted resistors, please take care not to rip traces when removing them, maybe consult YouTube to work out how to remove them. It's not my job to teach you how to remove them - I'm not that great at it myself! Now we can connect our external RGB lines with 75R ground termination and inline resistors. Job done Factory circuit very similar.

Remove "R2" resistors R, R, R Please check with multimeter for connectivity before removing!!!! The RGB could go straight into a set modded this way but the levels of the sync would have to be dropped down. If your video card outputs csync you could just run the csync line to the composite AV input through a 1KR resistor. If it outputs H and V Sync seperately you would need to combine and drop the levels.

A common way of doing this is to add 1KR resistors to each line and twist them together, other people buy fancy sync combiners. Posted: Tue Nov 20, pm. In hopes more interested people might find this guide, here's a list of sets using the BA-5D chassis: kvfs kvfs kvfs kvfs kvfs kvfs BA-5 chassis: kvfs12 kvfs12c. When you say external RGB inline resistors will be Ohm 1K1R , you saying the ones who go to scart rgb pins on your diagram, right?

Posted: Wed Nov 21, am. Found R and 82R resistors laying down here, but not 75R ones, can i be using that with same results? I did the switch, am i missing something? Posted: Wed Nov 21, pm. Posted: Thu Nov 22, am. I did a test here today and my switch is clearly not well soldered, will exchange it but so far i have crappy composite and when i switch, as i not have any input in RGB it shows all black, then if i put my fingers on each of the external rgb points i can clearly see RGB, so i think its working!

Posted: Thu Nov 22, pm. Posted: Sun Nov 25, pm. However, your pencil drawings show 41, 42, and 43, not EDIT: Nevermind.. I looked again and it clearly says Not sure what the hell I was seeing.

After examining the top and bottom of the board, there is a jumper wire, JW that is the through-hole wire in the hole marked for D Also, looks like only way to tap into the 5v on CN is to solder to the pin at the bottom of the board.

Any chance there is a topside jumper wire preferable or topside leg of something we can solder to to get the 5V? If so, this mod becomes Much, Much cleaner and easier. Posted: Tue Nov 27, am. I think I might have been mistaken about that diode. It looks like it might be a SMD diode on the bottom of the board..

I want to stay FAR away from that. See imgur post below with topside and bottomside images. I was using L and D to determine location on the bottom of the board.

Top: Bottom: With the D written vertical on the bottom side, I though it was referencing the thru hole where the jumper is. However, there are 2 surface mount components there.. Which rules that jumper out. Need a new blanking injection point and a 5V source.

The components marked LXXX are all topside with large exposed legs. Any of them work? Sorry I am the furthest thing from an electrical engineer.. The leg of L that is farthest from the jungle should be goer. I think this is the place but you should confirm first. Posted: Tue Nov 27, pm. Mark, What am I using that leg for? Blanking injection or 5v source? View new posts. View your posts. Page 1 of 8. Previous topic Next topic. Joined: 18 May Posts: Joined: 14 Nov Posts: Ed Oscuro.

Joined: 06 Nov Posts: HellRazor wrote: can i be using this 5V source or it needs to come from A board aka giant ancient board , thats a bit confuse, that board have plenty of 5V sources coming from everywhere theres one on CN and gnd and theres lots on jungle and micro chips, but i not know if even i can use that points 5V from the other board should be fine.

HellRazor wrote: also, can i use that kind of switch? HellRazor wrote: When you say external RGB inline resistors will be Ohm 1K1R , you saying the ones who go to scart rgb pins on your diagram, right? HellRazor wrote: Found R and 82R resistors laying down here, but not 75R ones, can i be using that with same results? Will be fine. Last edited by HellRazor on Wed Nov 21, am, edited 2 times in total.

HellRazor wrote: I did the switch, am i missing something? The twist method was just something I came up with for a quick and dirty install method when through hole resistors are on the chassis.

These chassis have surface mount resistors so not appropriate. HellRazor wrote: oh ok, so for test if everything is right before removing R, R, R , they should make connectivity with jungle chip RGB spots? That would be a good test. If they have markings it should be Ok, and after remove them its just solder the RGB lines to the jumpers with the resistors and get sync from AV1, and i done? Not sure why you want to use external 5V but yes.

That's a great piece of information to know. It's not unusual for the schematics to differ from the actual chassis implementation. Will be fine to solder the 5V with the 2K2 onto it. It would be good if you could analyse the circuit, check what the resistors actually are on that line, i. R and R It may be possible that we should use a different resistance. In the absence of diode D you could just use a resistor that has the same resistance as R


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