This is a dictionary of joseki for attacking and defending corner enclosures. I can't really say much about it, since I haven't tried to read it and I'm not at the level where doing so would do me much good, and I'm not in the habit of referring to it often either. It's out of print. An in-print book with related material is Keshi and Uchikomi.
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Small Knight Enclosure Invasions Large Knight Enclosure Invasions One-Space Enclosure Invasions Other Invasions Japanese terms Tokyo 1. White 1. Black 2 is the m. If White omits. Crawling at 1 is ba. The sequence.
The invas. The diagonal move. If Black intercepts a. Playing 2. Resisting wit. Black can also. If Black 1, White of. Black 2. White can also answ. Black 3 is a peace. If Black. If Black hane. Black can. White can al. Attaching on. White can also. Next White h. If White ca. Instead of the. Black 4 is. If White 1. Black 2 and 4. Black 8 is. White can also t. Descending at 4 is. Reference Figure 2 profit and infl. If Black plays. White can. If White jumps. Countering imm.
White c. Black ca. If Black con. Black has to. White can als. If White plays at 3,. If instead Bla. The crosscut of 5. Pushing up with 1 i. Attaching at 2 let. Enclosure Josekis. This book restricts itself to formations based on corner enclosures shimaris , and it covers the basic patterns that arise with the small knight and large knight enclosures, the one-space enclosure, and the star-point enclosure, with a supplementary chapter on three other common formations. All of the patterns are ones that must come up constantly in your own games.
A reader close to shodan in strength should have no trouble understanding any of the diagrams in this book, but I have tried to present the material so that it is clear and comprehensible to readers of all ranks. The important thing is to develop your ability to evaluate and compare the results of the different sequences in the context of the overall position. This is the first task for a player after he has mastered the fundamentals.
I have not always been explicit in indicating whether a certain result is favorable or unfavorable for one side. This is because in many cases the assessment of the result can change completely according to the surrounding position. If used as a textbook in the art of invading, it should help the reader to improve his middle game fighting strength.
More important than memorizing the sequences given here is to acquire the technique of invading by absorbing the concepts involved. The main theme of this book is the importance of playing lightly when invading a strong enemy position. The key concept is that of sabaki, that is, of making a light, flexible shape which makes it difficult for the opponent to launch a severe attack. An important lesson it teaches to the defender is that he should not overreact by trying to exterminate an invader.
If he plays reasonably, he should get adequate compensation, either by solidifying his territory or by building up compensatory outside influence. For the purpose of our analysis, the position on the rest of the board is ignored. White 1 is one vital point at which a solitary invader can attack. This is a high-level strategy in which White waits to see how Black reacts before deciding on his continuation. Black 2 emphasizes the outside.
White can live with 3 to 7, but he often keeps this sequence in reserve. After Black 4, White can also crawl at 5. Black 1 is a big move. In this case White lives on the side with 2 to White can also play a probe at 2. If Black 3. White can poke his head out into the center with 4 to 8.
What happens if Black blocks on the outside at 4? White lives in the corner with 2 to 8, but Black builds up outward influence. Playing this way means that White is prepared to fight. The idea of Black 2 is to settle the shape. The crosscut at 3 is a tesuji. If Black 4, White forces with 5 and 7, then makes light shape with 9.
Next — Dia. If Black continues by cutting at 1, White's strategy is to counter with 2 and 4. If next Black 5, White gets perfect shape with 6 and 8. The aim of Black 2 is to avoid giving White any help in making shape. White 3 is a light response. If Black takes the corner with 4, White extends to 5. White 3 is just a little heavy. If Black plays at 4 immediately, White hanes at 5 and lives in the corner. Playing a hane on the inside at 3 is risky.
Black blocks at 4, then takes away White's eyes with 8 and Black plays 2 when he wants to hang on to the corner territory. The clamp at 3 is good style. Simply connecting at 4 is a good answer; the standard sequence to 7 follows. Blocking at 4 is not good. White forces with 5, then extends to 7, getting a comfortable shape.
The aim of Black 2 is also to avoid helping White to make shape. The hane at 3 is a standard move.
Enclosure Josekis Attacking and Defending the Corner
Enclosure Josekis - The Book